Spare parts
From Wiki
Discussion thread: On BFB Forum
Spare (printed) parts for RapMan v3.0.0
Picassa album with mounted replacement parts
Part: 10030
Location: This two parts hold the right Y driving belt and are pressing X 12mm rods (1 pair)
Designer: Tony
Tested: Yes (Tony, Bogdan, Marcus)
Material: Tested with ABS and PP
- File:XClamp12.stl
- File:XClamp13.stl - updated to allow easier belt-tightening
Part: 10027
Location: This part is all over the machine, for e.g. you have 2 of them clamping the belt on the part 10030
Designer: Bogdan
Tested: Yes (Bogdan)
Material: Tested with ABS and PP
Part: 10040
Location: end of diagonal ties holding 8mm rods (16 pairs)
Designer: Tony
Tested: Yes (Tony, Bogdan)
Material: Tested with ABS and PP
Note: The small screw becomes optional
Part: 10066
Location: end of diagonal ties holding 12mm rods (4 pairs)
Designer: Tony
Tested: Yes (Tony, Bogdan, Marcus)
Material: Tested with ABS and PP
Note: The small screw becomes optional
Build: 1-02 (Bttm Corner Block L x 1)
Location: Front Bottom Right Corner Block (full replacement)
Designer: Bogdan
Tested: Yes (Bogdan, Marcus)
Material: Tested with PP, ABS
Source ( Art of Illusion ) file
STL file
corner (both stl and aoi source) with the apron instead of pads
Build: 1-01 (Bttm Corner Block R x 2)
Location: Front Bottom Left Corner Block / Back Bottom Right (full replacement)
Designer: Bogdan
Tested: Yes (Bogdan, Marcus)
Material: Tested with PP, ABS
Source ( Art of Illusion ) file
STL file
Corner (both STL and AOI source) with apron and without pads)
Foot
Location: Originally does not exist on the RapMan but is designed to be under each slider rod
Designer: Tony
Tested: Yes (Tony, Bogdan, Marcus)
Material: Tested with PP, ABS
Foot - spacer
Location: The foot height is 21mm. The crossbrace height is 20mm. The bottom of the lower rod should be at 55mm hence the bottom of the corner should be 50mm above ground. 50-20-21=9mm spacer. The spacer should go between corner and crossbrace for the diagonal going from back left (Zmotor) to front right corner, and for the other diagonal going from front left to back right the spacer shoud go between crossbrace and foot.
Designer: Tony
Tested: Yes (Tony, Bogdan)
Material: Tested with PP, ABS
Part: 10029 (Bearing Block Y Right)
Location: This block houses the linear bearing on the right Y slider (2 pcs)
Designer: Tony
Tested: Yes (Tony, Bogdan)
Material: Tested with PP, ABS
Note: If you are replacing the laser cut acrylic with this blocks you have to replace both of them on the left side and you also must replace the 2 on the right side. Replacing the acrylic laser cut pieces will raise the extruder 3mm.
Part: 10025/10041 (Bearing Block Y Left)
Location: This block houses the linear bearing on the left Y slider (2 pcs). The 10041 part (no need to print if you have original acrylic piece) goes under the block housing bearing so the "shiny" tube can be fastened properly
Designer: Tony, Bogdan
Tested: Yes (Tony, Bogdan)
Material: Tested with PP, ABS
Note: If you are replacing the laser cut acrylic with this blocks you have to replace both of them on the left side and you also must replace the 2 on the right side. Replacing the acrylic laser cut pieces will raise the extruder 3mm.
File:BrgBlockYLeft.stl
File:10041.stl
Part: 10034 (Bearing Block's holding X bearings (on extruder))
Location: This block's house the linear bearing on the extruder. You have to replace all 3 in the same time removing the lower plate of the extruder holder. You need one "back" block and 2 "front" blocks
Designer: Bogdan
Tested: Yes (Bogdan)
Material: Tested with PP, ABS, HDPE
Note: Replacing the bottom plate with the blocks is not ideal solution because the screws where the X belt is connected will not have the proper 2 side fix and are likely to break top plate on the fast X movement. Suggestion, if your bottom plate is not completely destroyed, is to use a longer screws (original ones are 35mm, use 40mm or 45mm) and put the blocks between top and bottom plate, so you do not replace the whole plate, you just add the blocks holding linear bearing between the plates.
File:BBlock back.stl
File:BBlock front.stl
Alternative bearing blocks
"Pillow blocks" for the bearings designed by "jcoffland" can be found on thingiverse RapMan3.1 Pillow blocks
Part: 10052 (extruder gear)
Location: The gear on the extruder drive shaft
Designer: Bogdan
Tested: Yes (John348, Marcus)
Material: Tested with ABS
Note: print using 0.6-0.8 fill as you need this gear strong. Jihn348 reported that using abs gears makes the extruder "quieter"
Part: 10053 (extruder gear)
Location: The gear on the extruder stepper motor
Designer: Bogdan
Tested: Yes (John348, Marcus)
Material: Tested with ABS
Note: print using 0.6-0.8 fill as you need this gear strong. Jihn348 reported that using abs gears makes the extruder "quieter"
Silent Extuder gears
Silent extruder gears (Rapman) by chylld can be found here on thingiverse
Part: 10013 (Z threaded rod pulley)
Location: The pulley on the Z threaded rods
Designer: pieterVL
Tested: Yes (pieterVL)
Material: Tested with ABS
Note: http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/fora/user/index.php?topic=776.msg7707#msg7707
Part: 10014, 10015, 10016 (Z motor pulley assembly)
Location: The pulley on the Z motor
Designer: pieterVL
Tested: Yes (pieterVL)
Material: Tested with ABS
Note: http://www.bitsfrombytes.com/fora/user/index.php?topic=776.msg7707#msg7707
Part 10021 Print Bed
- v3.0 Print bed- by Bogdan Kecman
- Media:V3_1_Printbed.dxf 2D dxf file of V3.1 printbed suitable for laser cutting- by Dave White
- Media:V3_0_Printbed.dxf 2D dxf file of V3.0 printbed suitable for laser cutting- by Dave White
Note for the v3.1 file the curved keyhole slots at front and back are slightly longer than the original (oops). If anyone uses the files please print them with a normal 2D printer first to check (you will have to "tile" it across several pages as it is bigger than A4) ... before you get it laser cut on expensive acrylic ..no responsibility taken for any errors.
Replacement Corner Set For RapMan 3.1(by Chylld)
Chylld has designed a very elegant set of replacement corners for RapMan. Full details on the forum
- The parts can be downloaded from Thingiverse
Parts
DXF's for Laser cutting and STL's for Printing(not certain which version)
.dxf files for laser cutting and .stl files for printing for an early version of RapMan (probably July 2008) many parts are similar to V3.0 some similar to V3.1
The .dxf parts are tight-packed, with common edges and no gaps. This means that if you cut them as they are the laser-cutter will waste a little time cutting some lines twice. Most laser-cutter driver software has an option to edit such lines so that they are only cut once. A few parts need to be engraved to get partial-thiknesses. You will almost certainly have to experiment with your particular cutter to get those right.
HOT END
Hot end is not really easy to self make so I really suggest getting it from BFB but if you like to know how it looks like here's the hot end designed in openSCAD: http://www.thingiverse.com/thing:3464
